![]() Im just not sure what the edges whould look like all i know is that the edges here dont look like they should. I mean just trueing them up a bit with maybe an angle grinder or something. Does anyone know a video showing a good way to do so? I dont mean like welding up edges. I do need to clean the edges up a bit on it. FOR SALE Very Nice Peter Wright Blacksmith ANVIL 1 2 10 Sweet lingering ring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites. PETER WRIGHT ANVIL 1-2-10 England Blacksmith Anvil aprox. As much as a 300lb+ anvil is something i salavate for i will be happy with what i have now. I have a Peter wright anvil 41 inches long at the top possibly 4-5 Hundred pounds any value. I think this one will do me for quite a while as my home anvil and my old 93lb peter wright will become my portable anvil. The second place is never over 3 so if you have difficulty reading the number it is a 1, 2 or 3. Lol that does sound like a heck of a good system. I finally got my 515# and 410# anvils using the TPAAAT Never got a big anvil that way but I wasted a lot less time and gas. So after a lot of wasted miles and time I came up with a filtering method: I'd call up the Auctioneer before the sale and ask how many people did it take to move the anvil: 1 = small anvil < 100#, 2 = medium anvil < 150#, a laugh and "we used a tractor/forklift/hoist on it!" = I attended the auction. I don't think I have ever seen one that wasn't beat to heck but it was much cheaper to replace the anvil than to slow down drilling and they had the option to replace them with new ones as needed.I used to go to auctions hunting for that "large anvil", only to find out that to an Auctioneer "large" meant anything over the 9 pound bench cast iron ASO's for straightening nails. The old oil field cable tool rigs that pounded a hole and had their drill bits reforged on a regular basis tended to use their bridge anvils as consumables. Now abuse is abuse no matter when it happens. 19th century smiths didn't worship their anvils! They were meant to be used put another 100+ years of work on them and let a couple of generations down the line make that decision! This is a perfect example of a Peter Wright anvil. We get some here that when we tell them their anvil is over 100 years old tell us they won't touch it with a hammer! Which is ridiculous in my opinion. That brings to mind the difference between folks who see an anvil as a tool-to be treated right, but also to be used and those who see it as a symbol imbued with mystic history and should be appreciated for it's age and prior use. by the english weight system, this anvil rings nicely and is ready to be put on display or put to work the last two pictures from google show a. One I subsequently sold on, the other is in the "clean shop" though at just over 400 pounds it's a bit much for jewelry and armour work.the face was polished in the repair and so my best anvil for nonferrous work.) After comparing marking with other anvils, this anvil is a English Peter Wright Anvil made between 1852-1910 that was forged into one piece by the patent mark, The markings 1-1-15 mean that it weighs 155 lb. This resulted in an anvil less likely to break but also more likely to sway. Peter Wright advertised that they used nothing but NEW wrought iron while others used the 'best scrap'. (Not exactly true as I have had 2 anvils repaired in the 2 decades after I learned of the correct method. The Peter Wright lines were copied by many others and defined the anvil shape of the late 19th and early 20th century. I have a slab of steel for that.Īctually by the time I learned that there was a good method of repairing anvils I had forgotten that my anvils needed repair their flaws had become "features". Having a large flat surface is handy to have for things like truing trivets and legs on things. In fact I use my anvil with some sway for straightening blades as I can push it just a bit too far and have it rebound to dead straight. Watch as I take this beat up Peter Wright anvil and bring it back to life, through a lot of welding, grinding, and surface finishing, Truly a showroom-grade. He had the contents of his late fathers smith shop, closed in 1953 when his dad had died. I got about a 125 lb Peter Wright anvil, 'Western Chief' forge blower and blast pipe/firepot (hearth rusted out), and a Champion wall drill and a mess of odd hand tools for 200 bucks. Usually sway is not an issue as most of us are generally working across the face rather than along the face. My last anvil is a 200 lb Kohlswa, made in Sweden, cast manganese steel. They used high grade real wrought iron which is much more malleable than lower grades and so the problem with heavy work causing sway. This the the common "traditional" way to make anvils with the older the anvil usually consisting of more pieces forge welded together. Note that with angle iron you can grind an insert to "fit" perfectly.īy the way Peter Wrights are NOT cast they were forged from real wrought iron with a high carbon steel faceplate forge welded on. Hardy holes were generally hot punched, especially in older anvils and so may not be a true square or may be slightly angled compared to the face. You can also use angle iron to make a 2 sided insert with only 2 tabs.
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